Friday, April 10, 2009

Day 4: Holy Toledo!!

This morning, we caught a thrilling, 5 am cab ride to the airport, driven by a cabbie that gunned the car up to 185 kph, sang us a Portugese love song, and chatted animatedly in Portugese about soccer (we think).
Here, Jack and Kelly wait sleepily for our 6:35 am flight to Madrid.

Despite how tired we were, we arrived in Madrid without problem, dropped off our luggage at our hotel, and managed to get ourselves to the train station to catch a fast train to Toledo, about 3o minutes outside of Madrid.
Toledo boasts a humongous and intricately designed cathedral, filled with gold, renowned art work, and Gothic, Baroque and Neo-classical architecture. The city is also famous for beautiful, artisinal ceramics, and marzapan candy.





Supposedly, the iron forgers in Toledo are so skilled that bull fighters from all over Spain will order their swords only from craftsman in this town. The detailed iron work can be seen all over Toledo.


Despite the confusing map and the winding, cobblestone paths, we managed to find the Museum Santa Cruz, a free museum in town that had an extensive El Greco exhibit, offering paintings of different saints and apostles cast in brilliant colors and a distinctive brush stroke.

Red rooftops of the Jewish quarter...
An old fortress wall...

...and the royal alcazar high on the hill.


We made it back to Madrid at 7pm, and gave our weary bodies a well-deserved, two hour siesta, before we set out again for our highly anticipated, Madrid tapas crawl! We hit the Puerto del Sol area, and made our rounds through 5 different tapas bars.

Each bar had a different character and tapas specialty, but in the end, our most treasured memory of this night was spending the time with good friends. How often do you get to spend good quality time with loved ones halfway across the world?


Thursday, April 09, 2009

Day 3: Quinta Port Houses in the Duoro Valley

Today, we woke up to brilliant sun shining through our window... perfect for a day of driving through the lush vineyards of the Duoro Valley. We rented a Toyota Yaris from the car rental place across the street from our hotel, and Shane being the only one of us with enough video gaming experience to navigate the harrowing streets of Porto (as well as the only one of us who could officially claim to drive a stick shift), expertly drove us out into the country side, where the sun shine gave way first to rain, and then to a dense, thick fog.
A lovely scene of the Duoro river and a port quinta, the winery house.

After some unintended detours through winding, narrow, hillside roads, we finally found our first stop, the quinta that makes Fonseca, one of the most popular ports exported to the United States.

A free, self-guided audio tour gave us the chance to roam and take in the scenes of the beautiful, terraced vineyards, blooming with baby grapes.




The long (2 hour plus) drive and a few glasses of port before noon whet our appetites for a big lunch, and we found ourselves at the modern, river front restaurant, D.O.C.

We settled ourselves in for a 4 course meal, prepared by one of Portugal's finest chefs. My favorite course was the grilled octopus, which was unbelievably tender, with a nice crunchy char on the tentacles.
After what turned out to be a 2 and half hour lunch, we managed to roll ourselves out of the restaurant and only had time to visit one more quinta for just a few tastings of port, before it was time to return to Porto.
There were a few hairy moments getting back into the city, but Shane handled it with precision and quick reflexes, although he later confessed to us that he hadn't been that nervous in a long time. Could have fooled us!
After dropping off the car, we ventured out to a lookout point to watch the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean.

Jack set the self timer for this shot and then had to run on the edge of the stone wall to jump into this shot...

After snapping photo after photo of the swift moving colors shifting across the sky, I turned around and found this rustic stone wall covered with colorful graffiti. I love photographing graffiti when I travel because I find that it sheds a little bit of insight into the local culture in a vibrant and informative way.

Since we'd had such a huge lunch late in the afternoon, none of us were too hungry, so we grabbed some crackers, nuts and a wedge of cheese at a grocery store and picnicked on the lovely patio of our hotel, under an almost full moon.

Tuesday, April 07, 2009

Day 2: Scenes from my Portugese Dreams

We woke up to our first full day in Porto with a yen for something sweet. S & K led us confidently to a lovely bakery that they had visited the day before, and we promptly satisfied our craving with a Portugese style croissant, macaroon, and almond tarte.

Fueled for the moment, we wandered the narrow cobblestone streets, filled with Old World charm, and decorated to the gills for Semana Santa, Holy Week.

Upon crossing the Duomo River, we entered Vila Nova de Gaia, where most of the port houses have set up tasting rooms. Most of the makers of this exquisite elixir keep their vineyards east of Porto in the Duomo Valley, then after harvest and sometimes bottling, load up the port barrels on boats that sail down the current to reach Vila Nova de Gaia.

Our first tasting of the day was at Kopke, established in 1638, and the oldest port house in town.

Below, I stare entranced as I'm served my first Ruby port, accompanied by small chocolates, a winning combination!

A Kopke Ruby port and a vintage 78, side by side.

After a luxurious and lingering visit, we walked up the cobblestone streets to reach Taylor, our next destination.
K & S wait at the oak barrel table for their first tasting.

After touring the facility and the lush grounds, we headed down the hill a few meters to Croft, where we sat down on the patio to enjoy our tastings and the welcoming sunshine. By this point, most of us had sugar coated tongues and could barely distinguish from one taste to the next.


So we decided that it was time for lunch. Jack got a huge, Porto-specific sandwich filled with meat, covered with melted cheese, gravy, and a fried egg! Looked too intense for my port-induced hazy mind to wrap around...


We also got a serving of tiny, local sea snails! Can you see the antennaes on these little suckers?



A river cruise down the Duomo beckoned after lunch, and we hopped on for a view of the 6 bridges, spanning the distance between Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. A few of these were designed by Eiffel.





The Portoguese have no qualms about airing out their laundry in public...

Winding our way back through quaint residences to our hotel...

Local graffiti...

A shot of the Porto train station...

And then the gang checks out the glamorous McDonalds in the center of town, complete with chandeliers!

We rested for a few hours before heading out for a nightcap at Solar de Vinho, a old manor house turned port bar. A few small plates of pate, cheese and olives, and several glasses of port selected by our helpful server topped off the perfect end to a beautiful day.



















Monday, April 06, 2009

Spain and Portugal, Day 1: Barcelona Barcelona...

After months of planning, our big trip for the year is finally here! Yesterday, we closed up shop in Seattle at 4am, and headed out to Spain, with a connection at JFK. All went smoothly, and we made it into Barcelona at 7am, on Sunday, April 5. We had a whole day to explore the city before we had to catch a plane on Ryan Airlines from Girona airport (about 1 hour and 15 minutes outside of Barcelona) to Porto, Portugal, where we would be meeting up with our buddies from Seattle, S & K. Unfortunately, neither one of us slept very much on our plane ride, and due to time changes, it was akin to a couple of zombies landing in a foreign country. But alas, we did our best.
First, some fuel. After locking our luggage up in a locker at the train station, we popped out of the metro, and the first thing we saw was a pastisseria! I think it was a sign that it would be a good day.

The morning was calm and quiet, and the streets of Barcelona seemed to be barely waking up at 9am.
We wandered through old town and came upon the Church of Santa Maria del Mar.
We walked in briefly, and realized that it was Palm Sunday, when we saw the ladies selling palm leaves out front.
After some more wandering, we mused to ourselves how quiet the streets were still, when suddenly, we heard a u2 song blaring around the corner and a huge roar from a crowd. We headed in the direction of the commotion, and caught a glimpse of the runners heading out from the start line at the Barcelona marathon! Pretty cool, though I was by no means about to jump in and join them...
Due to our lack of sleep, we were both craving calories, so we grabbed a few pastries, a cafe con leche, and jumped in line for the Picasso Museum... first Sundays of the month are free! We weren't aloud to take pictures inside, but the lovely courtyard was very photogenic.

Down the street from the Picasso Museum was the Chocolate Museum! Did you know that Mayans were the first to cultivate the cacao bean, but Barcelona was the first port through which they passed and were introduced to the rest of Europe, and consequently the world? And also, the Swiss are the highest consumer of chocolate in the world... 10 kilos per person on average per year! That's over 20 pounds! Our tickets to the museum were chocolate bars with the word "tiquet," and indeed chocolate is everywhere in the city.

Seeing all that chocolate all over the place certainly whet our appetities, so we popped into a tapas bar that looked super croweded with post Palm Sunday church goers, and squeezed our way up to the bar. What a treat! Being our first tapas experience in Spain, we didn't quite know what to expect, but the family running the business was friendly and supportive of our broken Spanish, and the small plates they put before us carried all sorts of simply prepared but truly delicious treats, like jamon sec, and sardines soaked in olive oil.

We found it interesting that Spaniards are big on tin canning their seafood, but instead of tasting bland and metallic, the berberechos, mussels, and clams were fresh tasting with an almost silky texture.


By the afternoon, our lack of sleep had certainly caught up with us, and we found a beautiful courtyard behind the Frederic Mares Museum. Jack fell asleep in the sunshine while sitting on a bench, underneath the orange trees laden with fruit, as a cello and a guitar played the Aranguez Guitar Concerto by Rodrigo somewhere around the corner. I sat next to him and spaced out for about an hour before realizing that it was time to head to the train station, pick up our luggage and catch the bus to the airport in Girona.

We got to the bus station just as the next bus to the airport left at 4:10 pm, and the next one was at 5. With our flight to Porto at 7pm, and the bus ride to be about an hour and 20 minutes, we were sweating bullets a bit about the timing. Jack bought me an ice cream to soothe the stress, and as I sat there eating it and staring at the tv screen broadcasting departures and arrivals, I saw that another bus had been added, leaving for Girona airport at 4:45! We grabbed our bags and ran outside just in time to throw them into the bus belly, and find seats together on an already crowded bus.
We made it to the airport at 6pm, checked our bags onto our flight, and even were able to sleep about 2 hours en route to Porto.
After one heck of a long day, we finally made it to our hotel, cleaned ourselves up, and met up in the lobby with... K & S! Yay! Together at last!
We went out to a traditional, Portugese restaurant down the street from our hotel and ate a late but filling dinner featuring Arroz y pulpa, octopus rice. Yum!

Returning to the hotel, I fell into bed and finally felt my body relax into the deep sleep that I'd been craving. I need my rest... tomorrow is going to be a big day of tasting ports!!!!